I am Angela and I love to sew. I started sewing as a child and by the time I was a teenager I was wearing the very latest fashions to go out in. All me-made. I am passionate about reducing the amount of textiles sent to landfill, and encourage you to repurpose fabrics and clothes I started this blog in order to have a way in which to pass on my gained knowledge, and my professional knowledge to you, Sewing is empowering, you can save money by making items, make money by selling then, You can pass your knowledge on to others. What is there not to love? Interestingly I am a direct descendant of the Flemish weavers who came over to England in the 1300's. I find that fascinating especially as most of my family from as far back as I can trace are somehow involved in the manufacturing of fabric . . I have a degree in tailoring with a special interest in WW2 fashion.

Saturday 26 May 2018

The Brother Adjustable Bias Binding Foot

A mini blog all about this incredibly useful and easy to use foot.

The Brother adjustable Bias Binder Foot


Bias binding foot
Hong Kong Seams 

This is my favourite foot at the moment, I love the way it makes adding a binding to an edge so incredibly simple. I have had a binder foot before, but nothing so easy to use as this one, so if you want to treat yourself I really recommend ordering one.  The Brother adjustable Bias Binder Foot   is available from Jaycotts, the current price is £24.99.

If you are making your own bindings as I normally do then ensure that the finished width is between 5 to 20 mm. Any wider and it will not fit into the foot.

Once you have made or purchased your binding simply press it in half.

Feed the tape through the guide with the folded edge to the right. Then turn the screw on the foot and align the edge of the tape with the left side of the guage. You may also want to adjust your needle position so that the stitches are as close to the edge of the binding as possible. Don't forget to tighten the screw.
When you are happy then pull an inch or so of the binding through to the back .

Insert the edge of the fabric you want binding into the tape in the guide - use an awl if necessary.
Test that the needle is in the right position and that it won't catch on the foot itself . Then simply start sewing, making sure that the fabric stays in place inside the binding. When you get to the end simply remove your work by raising the presser foot and pulling the fabric gently backwards.

This is a Hong Kong seam done very quickly and easily in secomds! If you are in any doubt as to how simple this foot is to make a beautiful bound edge then read how to do it the traditional way.

The Hong Kong or Bound seam - the traditional way

This is the traditional way to sew the Hong Kong seam, whilst it is perfectly fine to use this method it is time consuming 

Which ever way you choose it is a beautiful finish to any seam. It is used a lot in couture garments because it does look lovely.
You can use a contrast binding as I have done or if your fabric is very fine you could use hand made binding made from tulle or net. It looks fabulous inside an unlined jacket or coat.

Stitch your binding to the seam allowance matching the edges as above.

Trim the seam allowance to 1/4" making sure that you do not cut the binding. Press.
Fold and pin the binding behind the seam allowance. "Stitch in the ditch" making sure that   the binding underneath is stitched down.

Press and admire!

As you can see the back of the work is as neat as the front. 

Apart from bound seams there are many other ways you can use this foot, it is invaluable to quilters for adding the binding to your work for example.

You could use a narrow decorative stitch to sew the binding on - check that the needle does not catch on the foot or it will break
You don't have to use bias binding so long as your edge is perfectly straight by the way, you could use a ribbon instead, However  if there is even a small curve then you will have to use bias binding.

You can add a decorative edge to pockets, tote bags, sheets and pillowcases.
Imagine how pretty it would look around the hem of a full skirt or dress.

There are many other applications as you will soon find out. Sometimes using a new presser foot takes a bit of time to get used to, but with this I found that I did not even need to use pins.

In short, I love this foot and will be using it a lot, especially for my favourite but previously time consuming Hong Kong seam.

If you want any more information on this or any other product,  then there is a contact form, address details and opening times on this link:- Contact Jaycotts  

Or simply telephone during office hours on  01244 394099

Thank you for reading this post.

#boundseam #HongKongseam #binding #quilting #hem #jaycotts