Saturday, 26 September 2020

Vogue V881 Straight leg trousers

The vogue Custom Couture Collection by Claire Sheaffer. 

Straight leg trousers 


A Jaycotts post 



Fashion trends are slightly turning away from nothing but skinny leg trousers and jeans,which don't always suit our shape. Straight leg trousers give a very balanced appearance to the figure and are more flattering.
This pattern is available from Jaycotts Vogue V7881 Trouser pattern


This is a Vogue designer pattern and I love it. The pattern envelope states that the instructions are easy to follow and I certainly found that to be correct.








There are two separate patterns inside the envelope, one is for a couture method and I will definitely use this version when I make another pair in a wool suiting.
The main difference in the two designs is that the couture version has a lot of hand sewing and there are no darts - the fabric is instead eased into the waistband.
Whichever method you choose (or maybe combine the two) you are assured of a great pair of trousers.



The pattern has a fly front. Please do not worry about this as it is actually an easy method of inserting a zip!
The first thing to do as always, is to transfer all pattern markings from the pattern piece onto the fabric. I use a mixture of tailors tacks and chalk.
Jaycotts has a large selection of marking tool Pattern Marking equipment



The fronts are folded and pressed so that the right side overlaps the left and the edges overlocked or finished with a zigzag stitch.
The zip is then inserted. The instructions are very clear and easy to understand and I did not have any problems following them


 
This is the left side of the zip being inserted
Then the right is stitched to the facing only.




You may find it easier to tack the zip in place before stitching permanently.
Because the zip is hidden by the lapped facings it wont show, and it is difficult to make a mess of it anyway.Please dont prove me wrong!


I use seam tape on the fold to strengthen the area where the zip is stitched on. It will keep the facings in place Seam tape interfacing


Using Tailors chalk mark a curve on the front overlap. You could do it freehand or feel the facing underneath with your fingertips. Top stitch the overlap through all layers, being careful not to catch the left side of the trouser front


stitch the upper waistband on first - this needs interfacing first with a firm interfacing Firm Interfacing
Keep trying your trousers on to ensure a good fit and then stitch the rest of the waistband. The instructions on the pattern are very straightforward.




you will end up with a lovely professional looking fly front.


 Mark the position of the buttonholes with tailors 
chalk. you can position them however you prefer.

I made two pairs and on this pair I positioned two buttons side by side on the front edge, and I  also put one on the inside to hold the wrap over in place .
On the blue pinstripe I positioned them across the waistband.


Trousers are a skill which you will always be glad you learned. It is very difficult to find a good fit never mind in the colour and style you like.
this pair is in a lightweight stretch denim which is also inexpensive. Stretch Denim striped Fabric


This is a different look. I used a stretch crepe fabric in Black. This is a softer look and can be used for evening wear. Black Crepe Fabric


It can be very difficult to photograph Black successfully , but I can tell you that the fit is superb.


This top is also on my blog , The perfect wrap front top

Trousers are so very necessary as the weather becomes cooler. On this blog you will find posts showing how to make jeans and Palazzo pants etc. I used to feel that it was too daunting to make trousers but after I had made my first pair and realised that it is not at all difficult there was no going back to ready made. They fit perfectly, which is the main reason for making clothes don't you think?

Please have a go and use the contact me form if you have any sewing questions

Happy Sewing 

Angela

Sewangelicthreads