This is showing you how I make collarless shirts, my next post will show you how to add interest with a contrast yoke and piping, and it will include a collar.
There are many mens shirts patterns, all the major pattern companies have one.The one I am using is an old one which I adapt time and time again.
For this project I am going to be showing you how to make a shirt for a man, of course the same principal applies to making a shirt for a lady. Please do not feel daunted, it is not as difficult as it sounds.
I have made plenty of shirts for my other half and he delights in helping to choose the fabric but the buttons are all his own choice!
So, you will need a pattern.i am using McCalls M6044.
Interfacing, the weight will probably be a medium unless he intends to wear a tie with it when you would choose a heavy weight sew in. For this project though a medium should be sufficient.I am making it without a collar, but will explain how to do one with a collar on the way.
You will need some buttons too.and matching thread.
If you intend using a contrast fabric for the collar and cuff linings you will need a small piece of fabric which coordinates or clashes with the main fabric in the same weight and same fabric composition.
The reason for using the same type of fabric is that you want it to wash and wear evenly, without going limp or shrinking.
The fabric has been ironed and pinned together along the selvedge - this makes sure the grain is correct which is so important.
The pattern has been cut out, so I am all prepared to cut it out later this evening. Please look again later for photographs and updates on my progress. Meanwhile find some spare fabric and make the tie, you will find it easy and rewarding.
I have just spent a couple of hours cutting out, it is important to get the grain straight and go do this I measured from the selvedge to the grain line on the pattern piece, checking every couple of inches to make sure it is still straight. I also wanted the stripes to match where possible so i folded the fabric just off centre and pinned it in place.
For the cuffs,button bands and collar facing I chose a white self -patterned fabric in the same weight. Cut it out In the same way. There is no collar in this particular design.(adapted from a commercial pattern as shown)
So whatever you do, give pockets a go.
If there is to be just one pocket it usually goes on the left, but just think a minute, if he is left handed he will appreciate it being on the right. I make two usually, because as I said, men like pockets....
If the fabric is striped it is nice to have the stripes all matched up so that the pocket is almost invisible. In this case, cut the pockets out after you have done the placement markings. If you are using a plain fabric you wont have this problem.
If you are really struggling to match the pattern, then cut it on the cross and have the pocket stripes running diagonally, or use plain fabric on a heavily patterned fabric and match it up by using the same for facings too. Use your imagination and have fun,
The next step is to sew the shoulder seams, again matching the pattern as far as possible. Stitch the side seams and neaten the edges.
Please do not hesitate to ask me any questions, there is no need to struggle.
For the first step we need to put the front bands on. You should have interfaced them already, if not do it now. Fold the bands in half and pin to the front of the shirt.
Stitch the bands on and then iron them. Trim the seam allowance.Fold the edge of the band in by 5/8". Press. Fold the band in as shown, press again
Below is what you should now have.
Pin the band in place as shown.
Press again and there you have it. The bands are now in place.
Tonight I have been working on the cuffs.
Turn up and press an even narrow hem all around the bottom edge, making sure that the fronts match.
Follow the instructions on your sewing machine manual and start to slowly stitch the buttonholes.i always press them when they are all done.
I hope that you have enjoyed this shirt making masterclass. For simplicity I put all the blogs on shirtmaking into one page on my blog.
I would appreciate feedback, comments and questions
Happy sewing, and do let me see your results
Note the contrasting collar band
Dont think that you have to be left out, here is one I made for myself!
It is in a printed cotton,
Happy shirt sewing