Tuesday, 4 April 2017

How I made my lovely Sew Over It BETTY Dress for Jaycotts.co.uk

Jaycotts.co.uk  were kind enough to send me this Sew Over It BETTY dress pattern and I could not wait to make it. This is a new range of patterns which they  are  now stocking. I was so excited by it that I wanted to feature one in a blog right away


measuring yourself. Toile, pattern marking, Invisible zip, 

See the full range of Sew Over It patterns, including this one , on their website Sew Over It at Jaycotts

 I originally wanted to make it up in this "Paris" fabric but after trying every way I could gave up trying and raided my stash for this cotton viscose mix.
When choosing your fabric bear in mind the width of the skirt and choose something with a good drape which will hang well. I suggest a viscose mix. Minerva Fabrics have a great range of suitable fabrics and if you look at the selection on this page you will find florals and spots which will all look fabulous Viscose mix dress fabrics

The dress has a full circle skirt so it does take a lot of fabric. The only other things you need are some interfacing, an invisible zip and some thread.  A large spool of thread!

The pattern instructions are fabulous, inside the strong envelope is a booklet explaining each step in great detail. Fantastic.

The very first thing I did was to make a toille of the bodice. I used some lightweight cotton fabric and transferred all the pattern markings onto it with a fabric marking pen. Jaycotts have a good selection of water and air erasable marker pens. For a toille you need to use a water based or even a permanent marker Marker pens

I hand tacked the darts and joined the front to the back

I quickly tacked in a spare zipper so that I could try it on properly. The result? Much too big! I cut it out again but in the smaller size down, tried it on again and the fit was much better but still not perfect. I went ahead and cut the fabric out though as I was confident that the adjustment needed was minor.

I started to put the bodice together. It has very nice shaping, the darts making it a very fitted bodice. Do not stitch the side seams at this stage.

As the fabric is dark and I wanted to lift it near to my face I stitched some jumbo ric-rac braid to the neckline inside the seam allowance. This will form a really nice edging.

An all in one facing is sew easy!

I ironed on some interfacing to the facings and overlocked the edges. Join the facings at the shoulder seam and place the facing on the bodice right sides facing.
Stitch the facing to the bodice around the neckline and armholes. Clip the curves, press.

Using a large safety pin  pull the bottom of the back bodice right the way through the armholes on both sides. It is easy, honest! You will then have in  front of you a faced bodice which just needs pressing. Once you have mastered an all in one facing you will want to do it all the time, it really looks very neat on sleeveless tops and dresses

You can now go ahead and stitch the side seams, taking in the facing. Overlock the edges.
Many people are worried about overlocker,  because they hear reports that they are hard to thread. This can be the case, especially in older models, but in my opinion they are worth their weight in gold because of the speed they work at and for the results they give.
For more information on overlocker please do contact Jaycotts, they will give you the very best advice on which machine is right for you  Click  here to view Over lockers on Jaycotts.co.uk
  The one I use is the Brother 3034D, I love it because it is reliable, easy to thread and does a beautiful rolled hem without any fuss.

Here is my overlocker receiving some TLC from me. All machines need to be cleaned and dusted regularly and please ask yourself when you last changed your needles? They should really be changed after every garment!

This is the front of the bodice which is almost ready to be attached to the skirt.

There are still some fitting issues with the back. I have a narrow back and when I tried the bodice on again there was a lot of gaping. I pinned and tacked it so that it fit me and traced a new seam line with hand tacking stitches.

The skirt is a full,  circle but only has a front and two backs. Join  them together, overlock the side seams and join the skirt to the bodice. Overlock the entire back edges.

I love invisible zips. I also love this double sided basting tape which is fabulous for attaching your zip to the fabric whilst you machine it in place. I really do highly recommend this product, it makes sewing in zips so very easy and accurate
To buy it visit Jaycotts by clicking the link.  HERE

I use my invisible zip foot to attach the zip quickly and easily. You may not know this tip but if you use an ordinary zipper foot to stitch the back seam below the zip you will be able to stitch right up to the edge of the zipper with no gaps!

For the hem, the is no way I am hand sewing a circular hem so I used my overlocker to finish the edge,  I then folded it over and machined a single line around 5/8" from the edge. You could do a beautiful rolled hem on your overlocker instead.

So, here it is! The skirt is amazing don't you think?

I love the back, the low neckline is very flattering

It is a very pretty summer dress, but you can make it look more vintage by adding petticoats and a wide belt.

I am delighted with my BETTY  dress. This is the first time I have used a Sew Over It pattern, and although there were fitting issues with the bodice I do like this dress. My advice to you is to make a toille before cutting into your fabric.

 Sew Over It patterns are in stock at Jaycotts as are many other big brands including Tilly and the Buttons Tilly and the Buttons at Jaycotts

Please do not hesitate to contact Jaycotts How to contact Jaycotts for help and advice on any of their products and if you have had outstanding customer service tell them that too!