Monday, 3 August 2015

How I made My Pink Lined Jacket - A Butterick "See and Sew" pattern .B5235

Everybody has a favourite pattern, and this is mine. I have made this same jacket in various fabrics including one in black linen which has almost worn through I wear it so often. It was obvious therefore that I would want to share this pattern with you for my next blog on the  Minerva Crafts Blogger Network.

All fabric and haberdashery for this project is available from Minerva crafts, the link to their web site is:-

The Pattern  is a very easy Butterick "see and sew" pattern. It is fully lined which makes it easy to slip on and off. Butterick is part of the Mccalls pattern group

The fabric is a Pink Heavy textured wool blend coat fabric ,and can be viewed and ordered by clicking on this  link

I also  chose a very dark brown polyester lining fabric to contrast with the outer fabric. Minerva Crafts have a huge choice of linings and fabrics if you click on the Link above

You will also need a piece of Iron On woven interfacing, details of which can be found on the link here

 Of course you also need matching thread, buttons and shoulder pads if you choose to use them. Sometimes I use them, sometimes I don't, but I always have a pair handy and try them out during fitting and make my decision then.

As I said, I have made this pattern before so in my case I did not need to make a muslin. What I did though was to try another one of the jackets on and viewed it critically for any fitting adjustments. The fabric I am using is slightly bulkier than the others so I decided to add extra width along the seams to make allowances for the extra thickness of the fabric.
I started by shrinking the fabric, pressing it and leaving it to dry before pinning on my pattern, leaving additional seam allowances at the sides and back.
As you can see the pattern has beautiful darts up the back and front which pull the shape in at the waist. This makes for a beautifully fitted jacket which is reminiscent of a 1940s style. I love it!
The pattern has a front which is cut in one piece and has a dart in it. I wanted the jacket to look different to my other one, so I  cut out the lining and facing fabrics in muslin, tacked them to the back and tried it on. The fit and the look was exactly as I wanted so I went ahead and cut the front in two pieces, eliminating the dart as the princess seam provides all the shaping necessary.I added a bit extra at the side seam as this is a thick fabric.

Continue to make the front darts and then stitch the side and shoulder seams. Try the jacket on at this stage, both with and without shoulder pads although you do not have to make the decision to use then just yet.
The collar is easy to make. Iron on some of your woven interfacing to the lower collar, stitch together, trim the corners and turn the right way out. Baste the top edge together inside the seam line. I did some top stitching just over half an inch from the edges

Now that you have the body of the jacket made you then need to cut the lining out. The front facing is cut out in the main fabric and interfaced with the iron on woven interfacing. I also like to add a strip about 1 1/2" wide along the bottom edge of the jacket and the sleeve edges too. This helps to keep the shape and aids in turning up the hem, we will come to that later.
Between the facing and the front lining I like to add some decorative piping. This can be bought ready made but I prefer to make my own. I had a short length of bias binding in a bright pink leftover from another project, I pressed it open and folded it in half enclosing some piping cord in the centre. machine stitch it close to the fold.

Insert the piping in the seam allowance between the facing and the lining.Using your zipper foot stitch as close to the piping cord as possible.

I feel that it adds a really beautiful touch to the inside of a jacket or coat and as it takes little effort is well worth the time it takes.

When it comes to the back lining you need to build in extra ease room otherwise it could split when you stretch. To do this the pattern has pattern markings showing you exactly where to stitch to form pleats for wearing ease. Stitch along the marked lines and press the pleated section to one side.
Join the side seams and shoulder seams.

 This is what the facing now looks like. We will deal with the sleeves shortly!

We were talking about the hem earlier. I interfaced the entire hem for just a bit more than the seam allowance. This gives a base upon which you can stitch the hem down, To do this use a loose herringbone stitch, catching only the interfacing not the front of the fabric stitch the hem loosely in place.

Stitch the lining in place starting at one lower front and going right the way round to the other side
Clip the curves and trim the corners. Turn right sides out and press.

Machine baste the lining to the armhole, inside the seam allowance. Stitch the sleeve seam, and insert the sleeve as normal. Don't forget to ease stitch within the seam line between the notches to make the sleeve fit well.It makes inserting the sleeve so much easier.

 A word about shoulder pads.If you are using dry clean only fabric then these tailors shoulder pads really are the best. Otherwise use normal ones which are washable. Put the jacket on and insert the sleeve pad. Adjust it until it looks right and pin it in place. Stitch it loosely to the  shoulder seam, and then catch it loosely to the sleeve seam. You may also need a sleeve roll but unless you really want a tailored look to your jacket I hardly ever use them, not for an everyday jacket anyway.

The sleeve must sit in place neatly with no puckering or gathers evident

When it comes to lining the sleeve this is best done by hand. So, machine stitch the underarm seam and run your easing thread along the top between the notches. Press.
Insert the lining into the sleeve, wrong sides together, turning in the seam allowance as you go pin the sleeve in place. Then slip stitch it very neatly to the jacket lining, covering all the basting stitches preciously made.

Allowing for ease, turn up the lining hem and slip stitch that to the sleeve hem too. 
If you remember I inserted some interfacing into the bottom of the sleeve and slip stitched the hem to the interfacing.

Tackle the jacket hem in the same way. Make sure that the lining does not pull the jacket, the easiest way to do this is to turn up the lining hem so that the lining is the same length as the jacket and then push it up. This will allow plenty of wearing ease.

I did a bit of top stitching on my jacket, just for some interest. 
You then need to choose your buttons and work the buttonholes. I chose these large ones from Minerva Crafts and they add a spot of colour to the jacket. I was lucky because my sewing machine buttonhole attachment had to be set to the longest buttonhole stitch it does! If they were any bigger I would have had to hand sew them or do bound buttonholes. It is a good idea to bear this in mind when choosing buttons, maybe you could take a sample of your machines largest buttonhole with you when you go to buy them, so that you can ensure they will go through. 

Give the jacket a final press all over, using a pressing cloth and there it is, finished.
If you have a pattern which you love and which fits you well there is nothing wrong with making it up in different fabrics. I intend making the dress and jacket in a navy blue suiting soon.

I hope that you have enjoyed reading this post and that you are inspired to make one for yourself.

As a way if using up some of the spare fabric I decided to make a shopping tote bag. Bags are so useful don't you think.

I used some of my pink wool mix together with some left over curtain fabric and lined it with a piece of cream showerproof coat fabric which I found in my stash.
I used some cream webbing for handles , inserted a magnetic clasp -which was easy to fit - and made two covered buttons to decorate the front and back.
The pattern is from Simplicity

Everything I used is from and I wish to thank them for the fabulous fabrics.

  Best wishes

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